Maytag Washer Won’t Drain, 11 Simple Steps to Fix It Yourself

Introduction, what this guide covers and what to expect

Nothing ruins laundry day like a Maytag washer won’t drain, leaving clothes soaked and a puddle on the floor. If your machine fills but will not pump out water, this guide gets you from problem to fix, fast.

Most drain failures trace to a few practical causes: a clogged pump packed with socks or coins, a kinked or blocked drain hose, a faulty lid switch that prevents the pump from running, or a failed drain pump motor. I will show real checks for each, with clear symptoms to watch for.

Follow 11 simple steps, each with tools, time estimates, and when to call a pro.

Quick checks to try first

Start with the easy stuff you can do in under five minutes. Make sure the lid or door is fully closed, and that the machine is on a normal cycle. If the Maytag washer won’t drain, try a drain and spin or drain only cycle to force the pump to run.

Check the drain hose for kinks or a loop that traps water, and ensure it sits correctly in the standpipe. Look inside the drum and around the door seal for coins, socks, or small items that can jam the pump or trap. Redistribute an unbalanced load, especially with bulky items, then try draining again.

Finally, power cycle the washer by unplugging it for 60 seconds, or flipping the breaker, then restart. These quick checks fix many drain problems.

Safety and tools, what you need and what to unplug

If your maytag washer won’t drain, unplug the machine and shut off the water supply at the wall. Turn off the circuit breaker if needed. Have gloves, towels, a bucket, flat screwdriver, pliers, and a multimeter. Pull the washer away from the wall, lay towels under the front, and remove the lower access panel before inspecting the drain pump or hoses.

Check the drain hose and the standpipe or sink

If your Maytag washer won’t drain, the first place to look is the drain hose and the standpipe or sink. Unplug the washer, pull it away from the wall, then check the hose for kinks where it bends behind the machine. Even a small pinch can block flow.

Disconnect the hose at the back, put a bucket under it, and run water through the hose with a garden hose or tap. If water barely flows, use a plumber’s snake or a straightened wire clothes hanger to clear a clog, then rinse again. Inspect the standpipe or sink opening with a flashlight, and snake it if you see buildup.

Make sure the hose is inserted into the standpipe only a few inches, not shoved deep, and secure a high loop under the countertop to prevent siphoning. Reattach clamps, tuck the hose so it does not kink, plug the washer back in, and run a drain test.

Locate and clean the pump filter or coin trap

If your Maytag washer won’t drain, the pump filter or coin trap is often the culprit. First, unplug the machine and slide a towel and shallow pan under the front. Locate the access panel or kick plate at the bottom front, remove screws, then pull out the little drain hose or unscrew the trap cover. Expect some water to spill.

Pull debris with gloved fingers or needle nose pliers, look for coins, hair, socks, and lint. Rinse the filter under warm water, scrub with an old toothbrush if needed, and inspect the impeller behind the filter for obstructions. Check the rubber seal for cracks or trapped gunk.

Reassemble carefully, tighten the trap, restore power, and run a quick drain cycle. If the pump outlet still clogs, the pump itself may need replacement.

Test the drain pump for clogs and electrical faults

Unplug the washer and turn off the water, then remove the front access panel or pull the machine away and tip it back slightly to reach the pump at the bottom. Place a shallow pan and towels under the hoses, loosen the clamps, and drain any trapped water into the pan. Shine a flashlight into the pump inlet and use needle nose pliers to pull out visible obstructions, socks, coins, or lint that block the impeller.

Reattach hoses loosely and run a short drain cycle while listening near the pump. If you hear a humming noise but no water, the impeller is likely jammed; free it gently with a screwdriver or replace the pump. If you hear nothing, plug the washer back in and use a multimeter to check for voltage at the pump terminals during a drain command; if voltage is present and the motor is dead, replace the pump. Always unplug before any hands on work.

Check the lid switch, door latch, and other common switches

If your Maytag washer won’t drain, a failed safety switch is a top suspect. Top load machines have a lid switch that tells the washer the lid is closed; front load machines use a door latch. If those switches fail, the washer will refuse to enter drain or spin.

Quick tests you can do right now. Start a drain or spin cycle, then open and close the lid or press the door firmly; listen for a definite click. If you hear nothing, unplug the machine, remove the relevant access panel, and test the switch with a multimeter for continuity when activated. For the water level or pressure switch, locate the small rubber tube, blow gently into it; you should hear or feel a change that clicks the switch. Replace any switch that shows no continuity or no click. Always unplug before you probe wires.

Run a diagnostic cycle and perform a live drain test

Start by running the washer’s built in diagnostics or the Drain and Spin cycle. If your model has a diagnostics mode, follow the manual or the control panel prompts; otherwise select Drain and Spin, hit Start, then watch the display for error codes and listen for the pump motor. Next perform a live drain test, with power off and the unit unplugged. Open the lower access panel, pull out the small emergency drain hose, point it into a bucket and release the cap to let water out. If the pump runs and water flows, the problem is a clog in the drain hose or trap. If the pump hums but no water appears, the impeller may be jammed. If the pump never runs, suspect a bad pump or control board.

When to call a professional and expected repair costs

If your Maytag washer won’t drain after you cleared the trap, removed visible clogs, and ran a manual drain, it is time to call a pro. Call a technician if you smell burning, see electrical errors, have a leaking tub, or the drum will not spin. Typical costs, parts plus labor, are: drain pump replacement $120 to $300, lid switch $90 to $200, drive motor $300 to $600, control board $250 to $600. Expect diagnostic fees of $75 to $150. Get two quotes, ask if parts are OEM, and confirm warranty on labor and parts before approving work.

Prevention and maintenance tips to avoid future clogs

Treat prevention like insurance. Small habits stop clogs before they start, and they will save you time fixing a Maytag washer won’t drain problem later.

After every load, check pockets for coins, tissues, and hairpins; use a lint screen or mesh bag for socks and lingerie. Every month, run a hot water clean cycle with one cup white vinegar, followed by a rinse; this clears soap scum and residue that clog pumps. Inspect the drain hose quarterly, remove kinks, and make sure the hose loop sits above the drain inlet to prevent backflow. Clean the pump filter or trap, if your model has one, every 2 to 3 months, and wipe the door gasket on front loaders to remove hair and lint.

Avoid overloading, measure HE detergent precisely, and replace cracked hoses every few years. These routines keep the drain system clear and reliable.

Conclusion and next steps

When your Maytag washer won’t drain, check drain filter, inspect drain hose, run drain cycle, test pump, clear clogs, replace parts. Suggested order: unplug, empty tub, clean filter and hose, run diagnostics, call pro if persists. Always unplug, wear gloves.