Maytag Washer Makes Grinding Noise: How to Diagnose and Fix It Step by Step
Introduction: Why a Grinding Noise Is More Than a Nuisance
That grinding noise you hear when your Maytag washer makes grinding noise is not just annoying, it is a clear sign of mechanical stress. Maybe it starts during the spin cycle, maybe it shows up when draining, but the sound often points to worn bearings, a failing gearcase, a shredded belt, a damaged motor coupling, or a coin stuck in the drain pump. Ignoring it turns a small, inexpensive fix into a major repair.
Fixing this quickly saves money and prevents bigger problems, like a seized tub, water leaks, or ruined clothes with metal shavings. For example, a noisy bearing left unattended can destroy the whole gearcase, which costs far more than a bearing replacement.
In the steps ahead you will learn a simple, logical diagnostic path: isolate the sound with an empty spin test, inspect the pump and seal for foreign objects, check the drive belt and motor coupling, then assess the gearcase and bearings. Each check includes what to look for, how to test it safely, and when to call a technician.
Quick Check: Can You Safely Troubleshoot This Yourself?
If your Maytag washer makes grinding noise, start with a quick safety scan. Unplug the machine and check for burning smell, visible smoke, leaking water near electrical parts, or sparks; stop and call a technician immediately. Small objects or loose coins in the drain pump or drum are safe DIY checks; remove the front panel only if you know basic tools. If motor stalls or bearings fail, contact a pro.
How a Maytag Washer Produces Grinding Sounds
When a Maytag washer makes grinding noise, it usually comes from a few mechanical parts rubbing or failing. Common culprits are drum bearings, the tub seal where the inner drum meets the outer tub, and the drain pump when coins or small objects get lodged. On older top load models, the transmission or clutch can grind during agitation. On direct drive machines, check the motor coupling and the stator or rotor for wear.
Practical places to inspect, in order:
Inside drum gap for coins or debris.
Behind lower access panel for a noisy pump.
Mounts and bearings by spinning the drum by hand.
Safety First and Tools You Need
Unplug the washer, shut off the water valves, and pull the machine away from the wall. Wear work gloves and safety glasses, keep kids and pets out, and set a towel and bucket nearby to catch spills. If you will test electrical parts, use a multimeter and follow safety instructions.
Essential tools:
- Socket set and screwdrivers
- Needle nose pliers and adjustable wrench
- Flashlight and shop towels
- Multimeter and phone to photograph wiring
These steps and tools let you inspect why your Maytag washer makes grinding noise safely and without wasted time.
Step-by-Step: Inspect for Foreign Objects and the Drain Pump
Start simple. Unplug the washer, turn off the water, and pull the machine away from the wall so you can access the lower front panel. Put a shallow pan and towels under the access area, then open the pump filter cap slowly to drain any trapped water. Use a flashlight and fingertip to feel for coins, buttons, bra hooks, and gravel. Small metal objects are the most common reason a Maytag washer makes grinding noise.
If you find something, remove it with needle nose pliers or tweezers. While the access cover is off, spin the pump impeller by hand, feel for resistance, and clear any lint or hair wrapped around the shaft. Also check the drain hose and the tub perimeter for trapped items. If nothing shows and the sound persists, note what you found and proceed to the drain pump replacement or call a technician.
Check the Motor, Coupling, Belt, and Pulley
Unplug the machine, pull it out, and remove the rear access panel or the top cabinet on a top load Maytag. Locate the motor, the plastic motor coupling between motor and transmission on many top load models, the drive belt on belt driven units, and the pulley that guides the belt. Spin the motor shaft by hand; roughness or metal flakes mean worn bearings. Inspect the motor coupling for cracked plastic, missing teeth, or flattened metal studs; any damage equals replacement. Check the drive belt for glazing, frays, or oil saturation, and try twisting it; if it cracks or slips it needs swapping. Wiggle the pulley; side to side play or visible scoring on the rim signals replacement. If your maytag washer makes grinding noise and you see these signs, replacing the coupling or belt and pulley usually stops the grinding.
Check Bearings, Transmission, and Tub Support
If your Maytag washer makes grinding noise, start by distinguishing bearings from transmission. Worn drum bearings produce a low rumble that gets louder during spin, it sounds like gravel rolling and is steady whether the washer is empty or loaded. Transmission or gear problems sound more like metal scraping, whining, or clunks when shifting between agitate and spin, and you may notice slow or failed spins.
How to test, fast: run an empty spin cycle and listen close to the back panel, then place a palm on the tub to feel vibration. Grab the inner drum and rock it; side to side play or rough spots when you rotate it by hand point to bearings. Loud gear noise under load suggests the transmission.
DIY realistic? Bearing replacement often means pulling the whole tub and pressing new seals and bearings, it requires tools and patience. Transmission work is heavier, and usually best left to a repair pro unless you have experience.
DIY Fixes That Often Stop the Grinding
When your Maytag washer makes grinding noise, start with the easy, quick wins. First unplug the machine and pull the debris trap or coin pocket, usually behind the lower front panel or inside the drum rim, remove any coins or metal with a flashlight and a magnet, then run a short spin to test. Time 10 to 20 minutes, cost free.
If noise persists, check the drain pump. Remove the lower access panel, loosen the hose clamp, drain residual water, then inspect and clear the pump impeller. Pump replacement is straightforward for many models, 30 to 60 minutes, parts $35 to $120.
For agitator or drive belt wear, replace the belt or motor coupling; these repairs take 20 to 45 minutes and cost $10 to $45 in parts. Bearings and transmission grinding are tougher, expect 1 to 3 hours and $150 to $400, or consider a technician. Always unplug, document screw locations, and take photos before disassembly.
When to Call a Pro and What to Expect
If the grinding is loud, there is a burning smell, water leaks, or the washer stops spinning, call a pro. Also call when internal parts like bearings, the transmission, or the gearcase are likely at fault, or when DIY diagnosis did not stop the noise after basic checks. If your Maytag washer makes grinding noise and the unit is older than eight years, replacement often makes more sense.
Ask the technician these questions before agreeing to work:
What is the diagnostic fee and is it deducted from repairs?
Can you provide an itemized estimate, including parts brand?
Do parts and labor carry a warranty, and how long?
If repair exceeds X percent of replacement cost, will you recommend a replacement?
Typical costs to expect, roughly: bearing or tub seal repairs can run several hundred dollars, transmissions may cost more. If repair exceeds half the price of a new washer, replacement is usually the smarter choice.
Preventive Maintenance to Avoid Future Grinding
Do a few quick habits and you will cut the chance your Maytag washer makes grinding noise again. Empty pockets before each load, balance loads so the drum spins freely, and avoid stuffing bulky items together. Every month, run an empty hot cycle with two cups of white vinegar to dissolve residue that can wear bearings or the pump. Clean the pump filter or access panel per your manual, and verify the machine sits level by checking the feet with a wrench. If you still hear grinding, schedule a professional inspection annually to catch worn bearings or transmission issues early.
Conclusion: Quick Wins and Next Steps
If your Maytag washer makes grinding noise, start with quick wins: unplug the machine, check the drum for coins or screws, clear the pump trap, then run an empty spin. If grinding continues inspect the motor coupling or drum bearings, but stop if repairs require opening the gearcase. Prioritize safety, note your model number, order parts, and call a repair tech.
