Samsung Dryer Not Heating but Turns On: Step-by-Step Fixes You Can Do Today

Introduction: What this article helps you fix

You turned on your dryer, it tumbles, it powers up, but nothing gets warm. If your Samsung dryer not heating but turns on, this page helps you diagnose the cause and make safe, easy fixes at home. I will show quick checks that often fix the problem in 10 to 30 minutes, like clearing the lint trap, inspecting the exhaust vent outside, and verifying the circuit breaker or gas supply. You will also learn how to test the thermal fuse, heating element, and igniter using a basic multimeter, plus when to call a pro. No fluff, just step by step actions and real examples so you can decide if you need a part or just a thorough vent cleaning.

How a dryer heats, in plain English

A dryer makes heat from a few simple parts working together. In an electric model the heating element draws power and glows hot, in a gas model the igniter lights the gas valve. The control board and timer tell those parts when to get power, and thermostats measure temperature so the dryer does not overheat. A thermal fuse is a safety cutoff, it will kill heat if exhaust is blocked or a thermostat fails. That wiring path explains why a Samsung dryer not heating but turns on happens often, the drum and motor can run while a blown thermal fuse, a bad thermostat, a failed element, or a clogged vent prevent heat. So when you test, check the vent and lint trap first, then inspect the thermal fuse and heating component for continuity.

Common reasons a Samsung dryer powers on but does not heat

1. Lint trap and vent blockage, most common and easiest to fix. Clean the lint screen, pull the dryer away, disconnect the vent, and remove lint from the duct and exterior hood. Improved airflow often restores heat.

2. Wrong cycle or overloaded drum. Check you are not on air fluff or timed dry with low heat, and avoid packing the drum.

3. Power supply issue on electric models. The dryer motor runs on 120 volts, the heating element needs both legs of 240 volts. A tripped breaker or blown fuse can let the dryer spin but stop heating.

4. Thermal fuse or thermostats. These fail frequently, test continuity with a multimeter after unplugging the appliance.

5. Failed heating element or gas igniter and gas valve coils. Visual breaks in the coil or a weak igniter point to replacement.

6. Control board or internal wiring faults, less common, but consider if other fixes fail.

Quick checks to try in five minutes

If your Samsung dryer not heating but turns on, try these quick checks you can do in five minutes. These are safe, no tools tests that catch the most common problems first.

Power and breakers, make sure the dryer is firmly plugged in, and check the home breaker panel. On electric dryers one tripped leg can let the drum spin while the heating element gets no power. If a breaker is tripped reset it, if it trips again call an electrician.
Cycle settings, ensure you are not on Air Fluff, No Heat, or an Eco cycle. Pick Cotton or Normal with High Heat and run for two minutes to test.
Lint trap, remove and clean the lint screen, then shine a flashlight into the slot for hidden buildup. Blocked lint reduces airflow and prevents heating.
Exhaust vent, go outside and open the vent cap while the dryer runs, you should feel a strong blast of hot air. If airflow is weak or the flap stays closed, clear the duct or check for kinks.

If these quick checks do not fix a dryer that runs but will not heat, it is time for a qualified technician.

Electrical troubleshooting, step by step

Start by unplugging the dryer, then remove the access panel so you can reach the terminal block and components. Use a multimeter set to AC voltage, plug the dryer back in, then measure at the wall outlet. Between the two hot prongs you should see roughly 240 volts; between either hot prong and neutral you should see roughly 120 volts. If you read about 120 volts only between hots, a broken leg is likely, which explains why the motor runs but the heater does not.

Next check the circuit breaker, flip the double pole breaker off and on. A tripped or partially failed breaker can kill one hot leg while leaving the other live.

Turn power off and test the thermal fuse with a multimeter on continuity mode. A good fuse reads near zero ohms, an open or OL reading means the fuse is blown and must be replaced. Test the heating element for continuity as well. Most elements read in the single to low double digits ohms; an infinite reading means a break in the coil. If both thermal fuse and element are OK, suspect wiring or the control board.

Check airflow and vents for clogs

Start by pulling the lint screen and scraping trapped fibers from the mesh with your fingers, then vacuum the trap cavity. Lint often packs into the pocket and around the moisture sensor strips, so wipe those metal strips with a cloth and rubbing alcohol to improve sensing.

Next, unplug the dryer, pull it away from the wall, and disconnect the vent hose. Feed a long dryer vent brush or the hose of a shop vacuum into the duct, rotating as you push to pull out compacted lint and pet hair; replace any crushed or torn hose. Inside the drum, check the rear opening and seals for lint buildup and remove it with a brush.

Outside, open the exterior vent flap and remove debris or a bird nest if present. For a quick airflow test, run the dryer on air fluff and feel the outdoor vent; a weak blast means you still have a clog. Clean the vent every six months, and clear the lint screen after every load.

Common parts to replace and how to do it safely

If your Samsung dryer not heating but turns on, start by focusing on four common parts and simple safety steps. First, the thermal fuse, usually $10 to $25, fails if the dryer overheats; unplug the dryer, remove the back panel, test for continuity with a multimeter, replace if open. Second, the heating element, $40 to $120, shows no continuity or visible breaks; clean lint first, then swap the element assembly if faulty. Third, thermostats and high limit sensors, $10 to $30 each, are cheap to replace; test continuity and replace the specific thermostat that fails. Fourth, the gas igniter, $40 to $100, will not glow or click when faulty; shut off the gas supply before testing. Basic tools you need include a multimeter, Phillips and flat screwdrivers, socket set, pliers, and a vacuum for lint. Safety tips, always cut power at the breaker, turn off gas when applicable, label wiring, take photos before disassembly, and call a pro for gas component work if you are uncomfortable.

When to call a professional, and what to expect

If "samsung dryer not heating but turns on" fits your situation, quit DIY when you smell burning, see gas smells, get repeated error codes, or if the fix needs the control board, gas valve, or complex electrical tests. How to pick a tech, call an appliance repair company with positive reviews, ask for a license or certification, and request a written estimate plus parts warranty. Typical costs, electric heating element or thermostat $100 to $300, control board $200 to $500, gas valve $150 to $400, labor $75 to $150 per hour. Check your Samsung warranty and serial number first, and ask if diagnostic fees are waived when you proceed.

Preventive maintenance to avoid future no-heat problems

Clean the lint screen after every load, and vacuum the lint trap housing once a month. Clear the entire dryer vent at least every three to six months, or sooner if you run large or frequent loads; use a brush kit or hire a vent cleaner for long runs. Swap flexible foil or plastic duct for rigid metal, keep the vent run as short as possible, and make sure the outside hood opens freely.

Avoid overstuffing the drum, aim for about two thirds full, and get an annual inspection of the heating element, thermal fuse, and thermostats to prevent a Samsung dryer not heating but turns on.

Conclusion and quick fix checklist

Quick summary: when your Samsung dryer is not heating but turns on, start with the easy fixes. Checklist: clean lint trap and exhaust vent, check cycle and heat settings, test thermal fuse and heating element with a multimeter, inspect power supply and thermostat, for gas models verify gas valve and igniter. Safety: unplug before testing, wear gloves, call technician if unsure.